Every dispatch, every corner of the island.
10 stories and counting. Filter by what moves you — the food, the light, the secret patios — or search by neighborhood.
What the Plane Trees Leave Behind
Late autumn in Palma, the old town fills with enormous fallen leaves. We gather them by the armful and bring them home.
The Cathedral That Drinks the Light
Once a year, the rose windows of La Seu align to paint an eight of color across the nave. We woke at four to watch it happen.
A Table at the End of the Cliff
You hike forty minutes down a goat path on the Tramuntana coast. At the bottom, a man grills paella over orange wood while the sun falls into the sea.
The Wooden Train to the Valley of Gold
A 1912 narrow-gauge railway carries you through tunnels carved by hand into the mountain. It ends in an orchard.
The Bluest Water in Europe, If You Walk Far Enough
Es Trenc is famous. Its quieter end, where the dunes swallow the parking lot, is not. A field guide to the south coast.
Tuesdays at Santa Catalina
The market that fed Palma's fishermen for a hundred and seventy years now feeds its chefs. Come hungry, come early.
Where the Island Throws Itself Into the Sea
The road to Cap de Formentor is the most beautiful drive in the Mediterranean. It is also, briefly, terrifying.
The Hidden Courtyards of the Old Town
Palma's noble houses hide their lives behind heavy doors. Twice a year, those doors swing open.
The Winter Chopin Couldn't Wait to Leave
In 1838, a sick composer and his scandalous lover rented cells in a former monastery. The piano arrived three months late.
Modern Art Inside a Renaissance Wall
Es Baluard built its galleries into the city's sixteenth-century fortifications. The art is good. The roof terrace is better.