The bar we nearly walked out of

About fifteen years ago, I walked into Bar Espanya and thought, quite plainly: "I can't eat here." It was noisy, crowded and not remotely interested in making a polished first impression. Turning straight around felt awkward, so JJ and I stayed. A lucky failure of nerve.

That meal became a ritual. Bar Espanya is now one of my Palma top three, and a trip feels slightly unfinished without at least one visit — or a tortilla carried home like edible hand luggage.

Go to the original restaurant on Carrer de Can Escursac and sit at the bar. The separate dining room works perfectly well, but the bar is where the story happens: staff within talking distance, cold pintxos lined up on the counter, hot plates passing through and the whole room moving around you.

I ignored the tortilla for years because, honestly, why choose a lukewarm potato omelette when all those pintxos are flirting with you? I was an idiot. Now I think it is the best tortilla in Palma, and it can sell out.

My other regular orders include crispy king prawns with sweet chilli, Ibérico ham, Padrón peppers and the crab, chicken and tuna pintxos — in that order, because the tuna has the loudest finish. Bar Espanya is also where JJ and I finally found the supposedly mythical hot Padrón pepper. There is photographic evidence of the consequences.

Book ahead. Even with a reservation, wait outside until staff call for booked tables. The queue can look like a small administrative crisis. Trust them: they know exactly what they are doing.

There is a second Bar Espanya on Plaça Raimundo Clar with the same menu and spirit. I still choose the original. Some places have a branch; others have a heartbeat.